Bucks &amp; Oxon

<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="580" height="464" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/Hart-St-Tavern-1.png" alt="" class="wp-image-153594" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/Hart-St-Tavern-1.png 580w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/Hart-St-Tavern-1-400x320.png 400w" sizes="(max-width: 580px) 100vw, 580px" /></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-lowdown">THE LOWDOWN</h2>



Bang in the middle of gorgeous Henley, and a stone&#8217;s throw from the river, <a href="https://hartstreettavern.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">this popular all-day restaurant and bar</a> offers everything from bottomless brunches to live music on Saturday nights. The brainchild of restauranteur duo David Holliday and Alex Sergeant (you’ll know them from The Bottle &amp; Glass Inn over in Binfield Heath and Stag &amp; Huntsman in Hambleden), this chic restaurant and bar swaps out its sister pubs’ rural vibe for a contemporary cool aesthetic. Think banquette seating, huge swathes of natural light, an open kitchen and retro downlighters. 



Head chef Dan Woodhouse (who&#8217;s previously worked at Tom Aiken&#8217;s two Michelin star restaurant in Chelsea, among other places) provides a menu that runs the gamut of meat to veggie/vegan, with a great value mid-week set lunch menu if you&#8217;re thinking of having a sneaky &#8216;duvet day&#8217; and hitting the Henley shops. 



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/Front-1-986x1000.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83234"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">The festive entrance on Hart Street</figcaption></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe">THE VIBE</h2>



If you took your mate&#8217;s contemporary country house, dropped in an art deco-inspired bar, and stretched out the conservatory to fill with tables, it would be this. Relaxed and warm, it feels like you&#8217;ve been many times before, but also buzzing with groups of guests busily hustling in and out. 



Stepping in off the busy Hart Street, the sofas surrounding the roaring wood burner are begging to be sat in to nurse a glass (or bottle?) for the rest of the afternoon, with the seating area just across from the swanky art deco-inspired bar, which itself features plush, swively stools for those on the go.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/fire.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83235"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">As well as the formal seating area, guests enjoyed drinks by the woodburner</figcaption></figure>



For a visit more focused on eating, head to the tables and banquette seating that stretches most of the way across the restaurant. There&#8217;s a separate room that you can hire privately for larger group bookings or parties, plus a small outdoor space for better weather. 



My husband, toddler and I visited on a Saturday lunchtime while the restaurant was buzzing with tables full of chatty, relaxed guests. Families with children, friends out to shop, and even a group of runners who had just finished a race nearby were all sat to enjoy a cheery, refueling lunch.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-amp-quaff">SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</h2>



With life revolving around a small person (my child, not my husband), it&#8217;s not often I get to eat out these days and so looked for the more indulgent options on the menu (in our case, rib eye steak and pork belly). For others though, I could see sourdough pizzas flying out of the kitchen and even more frequently, juicy-looking burgers. The burgers are popular as the beef is from Oxford producer Paddock Farm with its pasture-fed Hereford Cattle.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/kitchen.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83224"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Dan Woodhouse and team create dishes using the charcoal grill and pizza oven</figcaption></figure>



We whet our appetite with some juicy Nocellara olives, knocked down with a Tavern Picante cocktail (Tequileno Blanco, Cointreau, lime, red chilli and bitters &#8211; recommend it!). It wasn’t particularly spicy, but very moreish and had a decent boozy kick.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/olives.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83225"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Nocellara olives</figcaption></figure>



The drinks list here will keep you busy with 13 rums, 23 gins, typical larger/beer-type options and page after page of wines. There was also a respectful attitude to alcohol-free, with inventive mocktails and soft drinks available. The list also included a local sparkling wine that I will forever regret not ordering. The Kingswood Estate Cuvee Brut English Sparkling wine is produced in its entirety down the road in Wyfold – and this is the only restaurant to serve it. With a dry, but ‘brioche’-like taste, it tastes very much like Champagne.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/cocktail.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83226"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">The Tavern Picante</figcaption></figure>



My Phillimore Estate fallow deer croustade with fresh &amp; pickled mushroom and roast garlic mayonnaise (below) was a generous starter packed full of tender meat with the texture of pulled pork. The pickled mushrooms cut through the heavy flavours and lifted the dish. 



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/starter-1.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83227"/></figure>



My husband ordered (and then inhaled) the Saltpig charcuterie with deep-fried brie, truffle honey and sourdough. What’s not to love about cheese and meat?! I could probably have eaten twice the meat – what can I say, I&#8217;m a pig – but the great chunks of breaded brie were nonetheless impressive.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/starter-2.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83228"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Saltpig charcuterie with deep-fried brie, truffle honey and sourdough</figcaption></figure>



Looking to complement my upcoming pork dish (red? white? both?), I had a word with the sommelier who pointed me in the direction of <a href="https://www.thewinesociety.com/product/chateau-batailley-pauillac-2015">Chateau Batailley, Paullic, Grand Cru, 2015</a>, which was bold enough to match the weight of the meaty dish, while light enough to cut through the creamy flavours.



My main, the pork belly with lyonnaise puree, duck fat and thyme potato terrine, star anise carrots &amp; balsamic sauce (below) was the star of the show. Topped with contrasting crispy crackling, the meat was buttery, generous in portion and melted in the mouth. It was absolutely all about the pork. 



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/pork-belly.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83229"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">The crisp Old Spot pork belly with <a href="https://www.thewinesociety.com/product/chateau-batailley-pauillac-2015">Chateau Batailley, Paullic, Grand Cru, 2015</a></figcaption></figure>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/12/pudding.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-83231"/><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Burnt Basque cheesecake with blackberry &amp; mint compote</figcaption></figure>



The pudding list was a good-looking selection of seven sinful items, and we shared a slice of burnt Basque cheesecake with blackberry &amp; mint compote. It was a lovely wedge and I ate more than I meant to, repeatedly tempted back for forkfuls. 



A quick word about younger palates too. My toddler is notorious fussy in restaurants but she was tucked into the mini garlic and cheese flatbread, followed by pork sausages, chips and peas – and barely murmured through the entire meal. The staff were brilliant with her too, providing a booth seat at the end of the row. 



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-out-amp-about">OUT &amp; ABOUT</h2>



Henley is my secret ‘wish I lived here’ town because there’s so much going on – it’s perfect for a night or weekend away. It really comes to life over spring and summer, with the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.hrr.co.uk/">Henley Regatta</a>,&nbsp;<a href="https://henley-festival.co.uk/">Henley Festival</a>, the 80s-tastic&nbsp;<a href="https://rewindfestival.com/">Rewind Festival</a>&nbsp;and the hugely popular&nbsp;<a href="https://henleyliteraryfestival.co.uk/">Henley Literary Festival</a>&nbsp;taking us through to autumn.



Quite aside from the busy official calendar, retail-wise there are some lovely indie shops in the town (<a href="https://www.fluidity-f2.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Fluidity</a>&nbsp;and <a href="https://www.busbyandfox.com/collections/clothing" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Busby &amp; Fox</a> for fashion,&nbsp;<a href="https://www.bellbookshop.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Bell&nbsp;Bookshop</a>) amongst the high street staples of Whistles, Mint Velvet and Crew. You can hire boats from&nbsp;<a href="https://www.hobbsofhenley.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Hobbs of Henley</a>&nbsp;and cruise around this gorgeous stretch of the Thames, or walk the tow-path and the locks for miles in each direction. Henley has an excellent park for kids too, just outside the family-friendly&nbsp;<a href="https://bucksoxon.muddystilettos.co.uk/little-black-book/directory/river-and-rowing-museum-henley/">River &amp; Rowing Museum</a>&nbsp;which has reopened after a significant refurb.



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="563" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/parterre-cliveden-1558583-1000x563.jpeg" alt="" class="wp-image-153662" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/parterre-cliveden-1558583-1000x563.jpeg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/parterre-cliveden-1558583-800x450.jpeg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/parterre-cliveden-1558583-400x225.jpeg 400w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/parterre-cliveden-1558583-900x506.jpeg 900w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2023/12/parterre-cliveden-1558583.jpeg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /><figcaption class="wp-element-caption">Cliveden, Buckinghamshire. Photo by Hugh Mothersole </figcaption></figure>



<a href="https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/greys-court" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Greys Court</a>, one of my favourite National Trust properties, is a smidge outside this riverside town (go in the spring for the extraordinary bluebell woods) and 850-year-old&nbsp;<a href="https://www.stonor.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Stonor Park</a>, with its house, gardens and playground is another great day out. The grand and gorgeous&nbsp;<a href="https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/cliveden" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Cliveden</a>&nbsp;is also well worth the 15-minute drive (walk from the National Trust car park following the river up to the house for a stunning approach). Reading is your closest big town at 15 minutes, but you’ll have to go 45 minutes to experience Oxford’s iconic spires.



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-verdict">THE VERDICT</h2>



Good for: Those wanting to enjoy a decent foodie and/or boozy pit stop while enjoying the culture and shopping of Henley. This restaurant starts with brunch (bottomless optional) into lunch (great looking roasts on Sundays), dinner, and then into Saturday night with live music. It&#8217;s an all-day, all-rounder. Also, great for families as there&#8217;s a good baby-changing facility and numerous high chairs. 



Not for: Those wanting a quiet romantic table hidden away in a nook or corner – the space feels very friendly and easygoing. Looking for fine dining with its attendant serviettes, hushed tones and flourishes? Keep walking.



The damage: Starters cost £8-£12, mains £14-38, with set lunch menu Mon-Fri 2 courses for £16 or 3 for £20 (including a glass of wine or soft drink). For little children, starters and deserts are £3 and the main £6 – I’ve paid more than that in a local pub so it&#8217;s great value.



<a href="https://hartstreettavern.com">Hart St Tavern</a>, 38 Hart St, Henley-on-Thames RG9 2AU.



Words: Miranda Luke

Review: Hart Street Tavern, Henley

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