Review: The Fishes, North Hinksey
The Fishes is tucked away off the Oxford tourist trail in North Hinksey village. Is this buzzy gastropub worth a punt? Muddy’s Harriet Dennys took the plunge to find out.
THE LOCATION
The Victorian artist John Ruskin was so fond of riding out from Oxford to the pretty village of North Hinksey he corralled a group of undergrads at the university – including one Oscar Wilde – to build a new road there, bordered by banks of flowers. These days, you’ll find a blue plaque in Ruskin’s memory on one of the thatched villages set around the 12th century village church – and, in the centre of this lovely spot to the west of Oxford, The Fishes pub.
This friendly gastropub in an eye-catching Victorian building is part of The Peach Pub group, which also owns The Thatch in Thame and The Fleece in Witney. While The Fishes’ hearty pub grub and cosy bar makes it a catch in the eyes of locals, out-of-towners may not know this Oxfordshire gem – but it’s super-accessible as it’s just off the Oxford ring-road. Slip on your galoshes and you can even walk here from the Oxford city centre or the train station in under 30 mins. No Park & Ride bus required.
The Fishes is deceptively spacious inside, with a series of connecting spaces for drinks at the bar, private parties in The Snug, or lunch or dinner in the main restaurant (called The Eatery) and adjacent conservatory. Muddy wellies and dogs are welcome in The Snug (which moonlights as a venue for business meetings) and in the bar, which makes The Fishes a welcoming pit-stop on a countryside ramble.
When it’s not raining (here’s hoping!), there’s acres of outside space in the huge garden leading down to the banks of Seacourt Stream, with trestle tables dotted between imposing evergreens. There’s more alfresco seating on the raised terrace connected to the conservatory and in the tented bar at the front of the pub, currently serving mulled wine and ‘grown-ups’ hot chocolate. (Psst: General Manager Laura told us she’s keen to maximise the pub’s outdoor zones, so watch this space for further developments). From springtime onwards it’s time to erect the garden tipi: head here for pizza and small plates, or something refreshing from the mobile horse-box bar.
THE VIBE
The Fishes’ décor takes the piscatorial theme and runs (or should that be swims?) with it. There are angling trophies galore here – a whole feature wall of stuffed perch, carp and trout, plus a medley of decorative ducks and drakes and a framed historical print of the Oxford and Cambridge boat race crews practising on the River Isis during the floods. Still rather topical, alas, as The Fishes’ occasionally water-logged garden can attest.
Perhaps appropriately, we visited The Fishes on a watery Sunday, when Storm Bert was doing its best to break the banks of the Isis. As a cheerful antidote to the rain lashing down outside, there was a roaring fire in the log-burner in the main restaurant and Christmas decs galore, from twinkly fairy lights to paper snowflakes. All areas of the pub were packed with groups seeking shelter from the elements, so despite the Grimvember day it was beginning to feel a lot like Christmas in this lively, buzzy spot. It was only polite, then, to tuck in to the newly launched festive menu without further ado.
SCOFF & QUAFF
The festive menu, available until Christmas Eve, has plenty to get you in the holiday spirit – from venison and pheasant terrine to turkey with all the trimmings and amaretti-soaked tiramisu. The gluten-free menu is unusually strong, too (believe us, we’ve seen a lot). A huge tick if, like us, you have a coeliac among your party. The Specials Board was also enticing – on the Sunday we dropped by, smoked salmon and horseradish cream was chalked up alongside whole boiled plaice, the Market Fish of the Day (yup, The Fishes is strong on seafood). All ingredients are sourced from local suppliers, including Jimmy Butler for pork, Aubrey Allen for steaks and Nyetimber for fizz.
To drink? We were driving, so no liquid lunch which was a shame as the wine list has an adventurous range of whites, reds and fizz, and plenty by the glass. The mocktail list was some solace. We sampled the child-friendly Pineapple Daiquiri, which went down rather well with our six-year-old.
For starters we went for Baked Camembert, which was pleasingly goo-ey and came with caramelised onions, and garlic and paprika king prawns, which were recommended by our waitress and arrived sizzling hot. Halloumi fries kept the children quiet before they returned to their colouring sheets (and fighting over crayons). For mains, the children cleaned their plates of the good-quality kids’ burgers, while adult appetites were satisfied (and then some) by the huge seasonal mains. Between us we tried the pork Sunday roast, accompanied by superb crackling and homemade Yorkshire pudding, and the braised beef with glazed carrots and shallots. Extra roast potatoes and Yorkshire puddings are offered mid-meal – your only problem is finding the room.
Give the generous portion sizes, you may need a breather before pudding, but it’s worth diving in for the likes of sticky toffee pudding (inc a gluten-free version), blackberry crumble cheesecake, and apple Tarte Tatin. If you’re struggling by this stage of the game, they also do a mini pudding – which is a chocolate brownie with a tea or coffee.
OUT & ABOUT
Get active! Before or after all that grub, you’ll need it. As mentioned above, you can walk or cycle to The Fishes from Oxford city centre. For more calorie-burners, the Oxford Sports Lawn Tennis Club has eight all-weather courts and is handily down the road, as is the home of Oxford RFC. History buffs can head to Godstow Abbey ruins, reportedly the burial place of Henry II’s mistress ‘Fair Rosamund’ de Clifford, a ten-min drive away near Wolvercote. If that’s not quite enough stimulation, Oxford has all the culture and shopping you could wish for: Modern Art Oxford, the Ashmolean, the Story Museum and the brilliant range of indies in the Covered Market for starters. Blenheim Palace is in this neck of the woods too – hop in the car and head north to check out its charming Christmas Market and first-ever ice-rink.
THE MUDDY VERDICT
Best for: Relaxed local drinkers, family gatherings, summer afternoons in a beer garden – there’s something for every season. The garden tipi can be hired out for parties, small weddings and baby showers, and The Snug can cater for private dining (seats up to 15) and business meetings.
Not for: Tourists. The Fishes is slightly off the beaten track, but I suspect the locals like it this way. The inside is cosy, so if you have small children in tow it might be best to sit outside and let them roam the huge garden, British climate permitting.
££: Good value given the generous portions. Small plates from £6.75, Starters £8-£11, Mains £15-£23 with top end £33 for fillet steak medallions. Puddings £7-9. The Christmas Menu is £39.50 for three courses/£33.50 for two.
The Fishes, North Hinksey Village, Oxford, OX2 0NA. Tel: 01865 249796. Fishesoxford.co.uk.
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