Bucks &amp; Oxon


<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-location">THE LOCATION</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="800" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-19-04-23-002.jpg" alt="The Oarsman, Marlow" class="wp-image-167600" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-19-04-23-002.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-19-04-23-002-800x640.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-19-04-23-002-400x320.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>I lived in Marlow for five years (before Bourne End) but never managed to visit The Oarsman – and it turns out this was an oversight. While I was hotfooting it around other, brasher, hostelries around town, there was The Oarsman, sitting patiently up the quieter end of the high street, until the day I finally got round to walking through its Spittal Street doors.</p>



<p>Well, what can I say? It was worth the wait. It felt like being reacquainted with an old friend – which is what this bistro and wine bar is rather well suited for. It’s a low-key, sophisticated sort of place, with impeccable service from the staff and food that – even by Marlow’s competitive culinary standards – stands out from the crowd. (Watch out, Mr Kerridge). Scan head chef Scott Smith’s menu (more of that later) and you’ll see why The Oarsman has won multiple awards. To name a handful of the latest: there’s&nbsp;the AA Notable Wine List 2024, Buckinghamshire Pub of the Year 2023 and – last but not least – it’s in the latest SquareMeal Top 100 Restaurants in the UK list.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-vibe"><strong>THE VIBE</strong></h2>



<p>Nigel Sutcliffe and James Mclean, co-founders of restaurant consultancy Truffle Hunting, reopened The Oarsman in September 2021, so the interiors are contemporary with a nod to Marlow&#8217;s rowing pedigree (local Olympian Sir Steve Redgrave has no doubt dropped by for a Chardonnay). On first look, you may mistake the exterior of the part-timbered building at the top of Marlow high street for your standard high street pub. But appearances are deceptive: once inside, The Oarsman oozes French bistro vibes – think classy small tables balanced out by spacious leather snugs and a sleek bar top.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-045.jpg" alt="The Oarsman Marlow" class="wp-image-167601" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-045.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-045-800x534.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-045-400x267.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>For my money, the best seats in the house – in summer, anyway – are through the back of the main restaurant, which opens out onto a flower-filled outdoor terrace. Once my friend Emma and I had settled here on a warm July evening, the hustle of Marlow felt pleasingly far away (the high street can get lively on a Saturday night). With no mood music as a distraction, the terrace (below) is a lovely private spot where you can have a proper catch-up.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="788" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6403-copy.jpg" alt="The Oarsman, Marlow" class="wp-image-167605" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6403-copy.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6403-copy-800x630.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6403-copy-400x315.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-scoff-amp-quaff"><strong>SCOFF &amp; QUAFF</strong></h2>



<p>The Oarsman serves bistro-style, seasonal dishes from the open kitchen and small plates from the charcuterie counter. For Marlovians doing lunch, there’s the the weekday set menu (from £21.50 for two courses) or the express ‘Snack and Spritz’ summer promo (£10). We were in no rush on a Saturday night though – so we started with a glass of bubbly from Marlow&#8217;s local Harrow &amp; Hope vineyard (£15 a glass) while we considered Scott Smith&#8217;s seasonal menu. He learned his craft in Michelin-starred kitchens, so it took a while to decide – just two more minutes!, we kept asking the waiter. We settled on a mozzarella salad with peas, broad beans, rocket and gremolata (£9.50) and courgette fritters with whipped feta (£10.50). Both were fresh, summery and full of unexpected flavour. Roll on course two!</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="750" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6406-copy.jpg" alt="The Oarsman, Marlow" class="wp-image-167608" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6406-copy.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6406-copy-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6406-copy-400x300.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>For mains I chose mussels (£22.50) – expecting the trad giant bowl of shellfish served with chips. Wrong! The Oarsman’s mussels are, naturally, a cut above the competition. They came served with smoked trout, new potatoes and a sharp cider and cream sauce. Emma went for half a lobster, which tasted as great as it looked (see below). The Oarsman is also known for its comprehensive wine list &#8211; and that&#8217;s an understatement. It has 300 wines from over 200 grape varieties, covering 40 wine-growing countries. We chose a carafe of white Spanish Rioja (2023 Valdebaron Blanco), which helped the time pass even more pleasantly. Like I said, this is a good place for a catch-up.</p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="750" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/LobsterCopy.jpg" alt="The Oarsman, Marlow" class="wp-image-167610" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/LobsterCopy.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/LobsterCopy-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/LobsterCopy-400x300.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>Two excellent courses down (and some Rioja to finish up), it seemed a shame not to try the pudding menu – and it didn’t disappoint. We shared The Oarsman&#8217;s take on a Strawberry Pavlova (£9.50). Again, not just any old Eton Mess, but a superior meringue pudding with strawberry-flavoured cream. </p>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="785" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6411-copy.jpg" alt="The Oarsman, Marlow" class="wp-image-167612" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6411-copy.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6411-copy-800x628.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/IMG_6411-copy-400x314.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-out-amp-about"><strong>OUT &amp; ABOUT</strong></h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-large"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="750" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2022/04/Marlow-Weir-Peter-OConnor-1000x750.jpg" alt="" class="wp-image-130060" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2022/04/Marlow-Weir-Peter-OConnor-1000x750.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2022/04/Marlow-Weir-Peter-OConnor-800x600.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2022/04/Marlow-Weir-Peter-OConnor-400x300.jpg 400w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2022/04/Marlow-Weir-Peter-OConnor-700x525.jpg 700w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2022/04/Marlow-Weir-Peter-OConnor.jpg 1500w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p>There’s plenty to explore in Marlow &#8211; as we advised the couple sitting at the next table who were down from Leicester for the weekend. For pubs and bars, try <a href="https://www.pubanddining.co.uk/two-brewers-marlow" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Two Brewers</a> on historic St Peter Street (where Jerome K Jerome wrote part of <em>Three Men in a Boat</em>), the outdoor terrace at the new <a href="https://piccolinorestaurants.com/locations/marlow/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Piccolino</a> restaurant on the site of the old Marlow Bar &amp; Grill, or cocktail bar <a href="https://thebotanist.uk.com/locations/marlow" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">The Botanist</a>. Marlow also has beautiful riverside walks towards Henley or Cookham, or in summer you can board one of the river-cruises that set off from Higginson Park. For a quick lunch there’s the Muddy Award-winning <a href="https://gingerwings.com/">Ginger Wings</a> in the Crafty Taproom at the park end of the high street. It’s co-founded by Heston Blumenthal’s son Jack with Leigh Jones, and Ed Sheeran is a fan. Or there’s luxury icecream (sorry, gelato) at <a href="https://www.amorino.com/en" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Amorino</a>, and enough boutique shops to keep Imelda Marcos happy. Try <a href="https://www.moochboutique.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Mooch</a> and <a href="https://scampanddude.com/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Scamp &amp; Dude</a>, for starters, or drop into high-end chains Mint Velvet, Jigsaw and OKA. The <a href="https://marlowbookshop.co.uk/">Marlow Bookshop</a> is a lovely place to browse, <a href="https://www.toymaster.co.uk/shops/marlow-toys-marlow/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Marlow Toys</a> is the go-to place for children’s presents, and the courtyard at <a href="https://www.satollo.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Satollo</a> is my rec for an alfresco coffee.</p>



<h2 class="wp-block-heading" id="h-the-muddy-verdict">THE MUDDY VERDICT</h2>



<figure class="wp-block-image size-full"><img decoding="async" loading="lazy" width="1000" height="667" src="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-037.jpg" alt="The Oarsman, Marlow" class="wp-image-167615" srcset="https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-037.jpg 1000w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-037-800x534.jpg 800w, https://dev.muddystilettos.co.uk/bucksoxon/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/08/TheOarsman-037-400x267.jpg 400w" sizes="(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px" /></figure>



<p><strong>Best for:</strong>&nbsp;The Oarsman is a grown-up place and somewhere you’ll want to push the boat out (sorry) over a top-class lunch or dinner. It’s great for leisurely catch-ups with friends, special occasions, or perhaps a romantic dinner à&nbsp;deux. Larger parties can book the private dining room upstairs.</p>



<p><strong>Not for:</strong>&nbsp;This isn’t a cheap and cheerful drop-in place – but that’s what makes it special. There is a kids menu (£12.50 for two courses), but it&#8217;s perhaps not the most suitable place for fractious children.</p>



<p><strong>£££:</strong>&nbsp;Considering this is glitzy Marlow, and the number of awards The Oarsman&#8217;s won, I&#8217;d say reasonable. (But if you <em>will</em> insist on Cote du Boeuf, the bill will soon tot up). Starters £9.50-£12.50, Mains £19.50-£34 for a half lobster and £120 for Cote du Boeuf for two. Puddings all £9.50. Lunch set menu (Mon to Fri) is £21.50 for two courses, £27.50 for three.</p>



<p><strong>By Harriet Dennys, Editor, Bucks &amp; Oxon</strong></p>



<p><em>The Oarsman,&nbsp;46 Spittal St, Marlow SL7 1DB. Tel:&nbsp;</em><a href="tel:01628617755">01628 617755</a>.&nbsp;Reservations: <a href="http://www.theoarsman.co.uk/">www.theoarsman.co.u</a><a href="http://www.theoarsman.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">k</a></p>


Review: The Oarsman, Marlow

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