The mysteriously-named ‘Troublesome Lodger’ in the private dining room upstairs at The Oarsman in Marlow seats an intimate 12 in stately wood-panelled surrounds, and there’s no time like the present to check it out.

Michelin-starred chef Simon Bonwick (formerly of The Dew Drop Inn and The Crown at Burchetts Green) has taken up indefinite residence there and is laying on a six-course set dinner from 7.30pm every Thurs, Fri and Sat evening – with optional wine pairings by in-house oenophile Nigel Sutcliffe.

Since taking up his tenure on 5 Sept, Simon has styled himself as the aforementioned ‘Troublesome Lodger’, but we reckon he’s pretty accommodating. He’s already spruced up the interiors (he’s a talented artist too) and installed an upstairs bar and a door from the street leading directly to his upstairs quarters.

Gather your foodie friends and book in while you can. It’s first come, first served, so there’s the option of smaller parties sharing a communal table for an intimate and immersive experience, and Chef Bonwick can take private bookings on other nights of the week by appointment. He’s also cooking lunch on the last Thursday and Friday of every month – arrive hungry for 1pm sharp!

The damage? It’s £85pp in Oct/Nov and £99pp in Dec, plus wine. If you go for the wine flight pairing (Nigel Sutcliffe calls The Oarsman’s well-stocked cellar “phantasmagorical”), there’s a £60pp option, or push the boat out for the £120pp vintages. It all sounds absolutely corking.